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I am with you. The auto part stores carry many oem equivalent parts now. I recently purchased some coolant hoses and they are probably just as good as the oem ones except they are probably 20% cheaper.

That said regarding parts I've happily used aftermarket parts. I went to AutoZone and O'Reilly's websites and both have the two belts readily available in a local stores to me. (And some have 3 year warranties, unusually long considering they are rubber items, Continental at AutoZone and Gates at O'Reilly's).
 

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I understand that fluid do expand/contract with temperature... do you think it has to be at the exact temperature?
The instructions note it has to be at specific operating temp. I am wondering why they didn’t extrapolate a level for cold, knowing or measuring the specified fluid thermal expansion rate...
 

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I understand that fluid do expand/contract with temperature... do you think it has to be at the exact temperature?
The instructions note it has to be at specific operating temp. I am wondering why they didn’t extrapolate a level for cold, knowing or measuring the specified fluid thermal expansion rate...
Frankly, as long as you get it in the ballpark, I think it's probably OK. I talk in my video here about how to measure it. You need an OBD2 dongle, an Android device, and the Torque app, but it's not terribly difficult. The hardest part for me was tracking down the right PID and the processing equation.

Anyway, the reason they don't specify a cold temperature is that there's no standard for what cold is. The range the manual specifies is 95 to 113F, which if you live in Texas, may be about what the ambient temperature is. But if you lived in Alaska, where it can be below freezing in the summer, you'd obviously still have to heat it up, and measure the fluid temp somehow.
 

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MR2Aaron, thank you for your wonderful contribution to this site!

Makes sense what you say about heating up the CVT fluid to get everyone on the same page so to speak.

(I’d still much rather adjust at say normal shop temp of say 20 C than risk getting scalded by hot transmission fluid though).
 

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Just done this today after some consulting with MR2Aaron. Takeaways:

1. Make sure to not loose the washer on the fill plug, if there is one. I'm still not positive if I had one to begin with. The part number seems to be 90430-18008, according to Cygnet inventory.

2. I've drained about 2.8L, then added 2.4L through the side fill port when it started dripping at the bottom. At this point, I've screwed in the bottom fill bolt and added another 0.4L. I had 0 issues adding the fluid - I've put a normal transmission funnel with a flex hose into the fill hole and rested it over the wheel under the wheel well. Then, I've put another long-neck funnel into the first funnel. The fluid went in without any backups or anything.

3. Warmed the tranny to the operating temp by using an iPhone app with a custom PID sensor - see MR2Aaron for links.

4. Opened the drain plug at the bottom, with the engine still running, and checked if there is ATF dripping - mine was not, so I've added some more (maybe 100-200ML) until is started dripping.

5. Just in case, waited for the transmission to cooldown and repeated 3-4. This time the fluid dripped, so I've torqued the plug.

Two things that are not clear:

- Does the engine have to be running while checking the level at #4? It seems the fluid would drip with the engine stopped, but would not with engine running.
- Does the fill plug have to be closed during 3-4? If not, it makes sense to leave the funnel in the fill hole until done.
 

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1. lift vehicle but keep level front to rear within +/-1 degree
2. remove refill plug
3. remove overflow plug
4. remove No. 1 transmission oil filler tube from oil pan sub-assembly and drain fluid
5. install No. 1 tube to 0.8 Nm (proper torque imperative to getting proper level)
6. add fluid to refill hole until it flows out overflow hole
7. wait until flow slows to only drops
8. temporarily install (old) gasket and overflow plug
9. Add 0.4 US qts
10. Install (old) gasket and refill plug
11. lower vehicle
12. start engine
13. Slowly shift from P to B, then back to P (3 seconds each)
14. Allow engine to idle 30 seconds
15. turn off engine
Repeat 1 - 15
Repeat 1 - 11
Adjust fluid level (this is another document)...
 

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Fluid Temperature Check

Assuming you do not have Techstream

(1)Using SST 09843-18040, connect terminals 13 and 4 on the DLC3 (OBD2 port)
Start engine
verify electrical systems off, ie air conditioner, audio, and lighting system
slowly shift from P to B and back to P (3 seconds each position)
move shift lever to D, then continuously move back and forth N to D (interval less than 1.5 sec for 6 total seconds or more)
D should light up for 2 seconds and then turn off
return to P
remove SST from 13 and 4
Observe D, if off or on solid continue, if blinking it's too hot and turn off engine for a while, then start over

Temp should be between 35 C ( 95 F) and 45 C (113 F)

idle engine until fluid temp is correct
lift vehicle immediately when D illuminates (solid)
remove overflow plug and gasket
if fluid overflows (stream)
wait until trickle, then tighten with new gasket to 40 Nm
replace refill plug with new gasket and tighetn to 49 Nm
if fluid does not overflow
remove refill plug and gasket
add fluid into refill hole until it flows out
when steady flow slows to trickle, install overflow with new gasket to 40 Nm
install refill plug with new gasket to 49 Nm.
Lower iQ
Turn ignition off.
 

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Makes me want to not drive mine. But the other car seems undrivable again so I may have to reconnect the battery negative cable soon...

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 

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after watching the video how much work there is to change the CVT fluid, I am glad the change interval is 100k miles.
The video is how NOT to do it - he explains it in the first minute or so. The normal change is just two bolts - drain plug and fill plug. Drain, fill, warmup the transmission (easy to check using a phone app), check level and maybe add a little more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I can assure you posts 27 and 28 are from Toyota Techinfo. Of course since it has a “Copywrite” like a book I’ve transcribed the relevant parts. I omitted the Techstream part but shorting the OBD2 pins seems to do the trick.

Now onto a relevant question, there seemed to be a change in fluid spec from the early iQs to the later ones. I know the one specified for the ‘14 (mine) is FE. Are there a good aftermarket alternatives? (I should go check Amsoil for now).
 

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I don’t doubt that :) All I’m saying is that you don’t need to drop the pan like in the video, and reading trans temperature through ODBII is much more convenient than shorting pins.


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hi guys, from a dummy guy point of view...................this is not a blood transfusion. Whatever amount you take out at room temperature, measure it and put back the same amount. Is there anything wrong with this common sense thinking? thanks
 

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@HoustoniQ It makes perfect sense unless there is undissolved particulate matter that drops out of solution when the fluid becomes cold. (This is a guess on my part). But I do not see any necessity to drain the fluid hot per Toyota instructions so I would not bet on my own guess....

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hi Chen, you are a great asset on here and over on Smartcarofamerica forum! Sometime a person with less knowledge live a less stressful life. I have 3 iQ so i can afford to experiment one with the Dummy method, because following Toyota instruction will give me an headache.
 
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