[BamZipPow]

I'm going to attach a portion of the change document. But yeah it refers to an "Adjustment" document which is a pain to follow. (Hopefully Toyota doesn't give me any trouble but it's not the whole thing)....

So pulling out the tube, aka "oil filler tube", leaves a lot of fluid?

I agree that your method is much simpler....

Yes, there is at least 2 quarts of fluid that's untouched when you remove the tube. You can see from this screen capture where the top of the drain hole is on the pan. Everything in the pan would be left behind. You have 3 options: leave it in, drop the pan, or suck it out.

My approach is the same simple approach used by many transmission fluid exchanges. Put back in the same amount of fluid that you extract.

I'm surprised that no one else is performing a fluid exchange like I am. Maybe this will become the new standard?

 

[maksym]

Yeah, I was thinking about trying to go through the fill hole as well. Not sure if it reaches all the way into the pan. Having an oil extractor like this would also make the job much faster and save time on cleaning that shopvac https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24397-Liter-Evacuator-Dispenser/dp/B00LCEWR4A/

I don’t have much issue with refilling though. If I recall correctly, the drain plug can be reached with the car on the ground, while the fill port can be reached behind the wheel (although my tube happened to fall out and made a huge mess .


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[jzchen]

This is very strange to say the least. Toyota should know that that elevated drain hole would leave a significant amount of fluid left.

On PriusChat there is always debate on whether the WS transmission fluid should be changed, and at what interval. The service literature does not have a change interval but does say to check the condition of the fluid at certain points/mileage.

I brought up a point from solution chemistry. Up to a certain point solute will dissolve into a solvent until the solution is saturated. Is this why they decided to leave some old fluid in? Intentionally leaving oil fluid with some solute on purpose? I mean they could have left the pan flat and raised the height of the overflow tube the same amount...

Thoughts?

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[BamZipPow]

Yeah, I was thinking about trying to go through the fill hole as well. Not sure if it reaches all the way into the pan. Having an oil extractor like this would also make the job much faster and save time on cleaning that shopvac https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24397-Liter-Evacuator-Dispenser/dp/B00LCEWR4A/

I don’t have much issue with refilling though. If I recall correctly, the drain plug can be reached with the car on the ground, while the fill port can be reached behind the wheel (although my tube happened to fall out and made a huge mess .


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The method I use is incorporates a gallon bottle inside of the Shopvac to capture the fluid so the Shopvac doesn't get messy unless the hose falls out of the bottle.

With the top port fill hole, I can refill the transmission without any hand tools or lifting the vehicle up off the ground.

 

[maksym]

The method I use is incorporates a gallon bottle inside of the Shopvac to capture the fluid so the Shopvac doesn't get messy unless the hose falls out of the bottle.
View attachment 17262

View attachment 17263

With the top port fill hole, I can refill the transmission without any hand tools or lifting the vehicle up off the ground.

Ah, good point, very cool idea with shop vac! I guess another option is to use a vacuum brake bleeder - they come with fairly slim hoses and have a handy scale for measuring liquids.


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[BamZipPow]

Ah, good point, very cool idea with shop vac! I guess another option is to use a vacuum brake bleeder - they come with fairly slim hoses and have a handy scale for measuring liquids.


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I looked at a few of those and found that some of those tools can't handle anything above 1/2 gallon of fluid at a time. This setup was very cost effective and most DIYers have a shop vac on hand to work with. I did look at an electric pump but I wanted to make sure my method was going to work before investing into that type of setup.

 

[BamZipPow]

While watching a video on South Main Auto (Eric O), he demonstrated a drill powered pump he got from the Mac tool truck. I found a similar tool made by Tool Guy Republic (part number HT-1715) which costs about $100 shipped. I just ordered it and will post up on how well it performs or doesn't perform when compared to the shop vac process. It should be much better as it isn't as bulky and you can easily see the fluid level in the drain jug. It should only take a few minutes to drain and another few minutes to fill using this tool.

TGR Fluid Transfer Pump - Powered by an Air Ratchet or Cordless Drill

Can be powered by an air ratchet or cordless drill. Universal adaptor with rubber mounting strap allows all drill sizes to be quickly mounted to pump Specifically designed for differential or transmission service. One hand operation leaves free hand to manage suction and discharge hoses Quickly...

www.toolguyrepublic.com

Video.

 

[snarfbug7405]

No way on this climate change planet would I ever mess with the cvt. That is 89 dollar toyota job sir. If you put too much or too little fluid you are pooched and your car is a big ol paperweight.
Goodluck be careful and do not screw it up trying to save a c note.

 

[jzchen]

No way on this climate change planet would I ever mess with the cvt. That is 89 dollar toyota job sir. If you put too much or too little fluid you are pooched and your car is a big ol paperweight.
Goodluck be careful and do not screw it up trying to save a c note.

The official instructions to change the CVT fluid are more complex than for our '13 Porsche Panamera GTS PDK. I think $89 is worth it (if that is the cost to have it done properly).

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[BamZipPow]

No way on this climate change planet would I ever mess with the cvt. That is 89 dollar toyota job sir. If you put too much or too little fluid you are pooched and your car is a big ol paperweight.
Goodluck be careful and do not screw it up trying to save a c note.

There's no way the dealership is going to do a fluid change on the iQ fer $89. The fluid alone is about MSRP $100. Add in an hour or two for the labor and yer out the door fer about $400. I've already made one exchange using my shop vac setup with no issues. I'm looking to make the process simpler vs what the dealership performs. I can still have the dealership perform the fluid level check process if needed.

 

[6speedenvy]

I'm in the process of changing the CVT fluid in my 2012. I went ahead and dropped the pan after removing the drain plug and snorkel. It wasn't that much of a hassle although some of the bolts were frozen in the transmission housing. On a couple of the bolts some of the aluminum threads from transmission housing came out with the bolts! I used a 6mm die to clean up the threads on the bolts and used the same sized tap to clean out the threads in the transmission. More old fluid drained out after I removed the transmission filter. The cheapest replacement filter I've found so far is $60! When looking through the oval shaped pickup hole it appears that the filter element is a nothing but a fine mesh screen. I'm going to attempt to open it up to inspect it. If that's the case I may try to clean it and use small sheet metal screws to clamp it back together.

 

[jzchen]

Wow, I did not even know about a filter. Gonna do some digging to see if I can find more about it and possible replacements....

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[jzchen]

All I see are two oil cleaner magnets which should be cleaned up as well as the pan.

The 15 vertical bolts are 7.0 Nm, no specified order. (Gasket should be replaced with new one on clean and degreased mating surfaces).

Filler tube 0.8 Nm, "overflow plug" aka drain plug is 40Nm.

There is a long edge on one side and shorter edge on the opposite side. On the short side there is a long bolt going in (I suspect horizontally) spec 45 Nm. (For some reason instructions say remove this before the 15 pan bolts).



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[6speedenvy]

I watched the video on YouTube which shows how to change the CVT fluid in an IQ and the man said Toyota had nothing in the service manual about changing the filter. When I removed the 3 bolts and removed the filter I looked inside the oval pickup hole. It looks and feels like a screen. I'm going to check with the dealer tomorrow and ask them if it needs to be changed. If it's a screen I might just flush it out with solvent, then blow it out with compressed air until dry and reuse it.

 

[jzchen]

Be sure you pick up the gaskets for the overflow plug and refill plug. Refill plug is 49 Nm. Replace with new gasket at last step after adjusting fluid level...

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[jzchen]

@6speedenvy I don't see anything about a screen/filter in any service info that I have. Interesting you were able to find it. It may be that my manual is just missing the document but component pages don't show it either. It may not be considered a service/replacement item. Did you see the two magnets?

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[6speedenvy]

Yes I cleaned the magnets and the pan. I removed the filter yesterday and rinsed it out with solvent. The filter element looks like some type of woven fiber. It's not a metal screen. When I called the Toyota parts department they couldn't find a part number for it. I found some advertised online but none of them look like the one on my transmission.

 

[jzchen]

The CVT designation is K41B. Searching Toyota K41B CVT filter comes up with some hits. I hope it looks like one of them?

 

[jzchen]

JS Asakashi seems to make a JT605K and a COB-WEB makes a SF435.
Last time I inquired about a JS Asakashi product I was able to purchase a bunch of carbon cabin filters for my iQ from fitinpart. (They are legit):

JS JT605K 30400-74040_JT,30400-74022_JT

Price:US$5.34

www.fitinpart.sg

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[6speedenvy]

That looks like the correct filter and gasket! Thanks jzchen!