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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone experience their IQ running bad after installing a new battery? - idle rpm was lower than usual, felt like it was going to die, gas pedal felt mushy ?

I purchased a Duralast Gold Battery 51

Was I supposed to do something after installation ?

Checked terminals- were tight and it didn't take me more than 30 minutes to swap the battery...

I read online about cars having a memory and sometime it just needs to be driven for 20 minutes?

Thought about buying Optima yellow cap battery .... any thoughts
 

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I just recently replaced my good 51 battery with a 46B24R and nothing unusual. (I also frequently let the car sit with the negative cable disconnected for many days. It runs fine whenever I reconnect it. I do torque to 5.4 Nm as per instructions for + and - side.

I say unlikely to be a battery issue. For good measure if you have a multimeter measure voltage at the battery terminals engine off and engine on. (I've read about people saying sometimes you get an old battery from the store that is not fully charged. While engine running will show if alternator is working).

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Make sure you have not disconnected something by accident and make sure battery terminals are tight. Disconnected mass airflow sensor can make it run rough.


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Make sure you have not disconnected something by accident and make sure battery terminals are tight. Disconnected mass airflow sensor can make it run rough.


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That's a good note to consider. What was the problem you encountered that convinced you to change the battery in the first place? Maybe it was something else...

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Update

I decided to replace my battery because my tire shop performed a battery test and it had a 25% life on it.

Thought it be good idea to replace it before it dies on me in the future.

After installing the original battery it ran bad but after a few minutes it ran normal again.

Maybe the new batteries were not charged?
 

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Update

I decided to replace my battery because my tire shop performed a battery test and it had a 25% life on it.

Though it was a good idea to replace it before it dies on me in the future.

After installing the original battery it ran bad but after a few minutes it ran like normal.

Maybe it the new batteries were not charged?
Empty batter would prevent the car from starting, but once started - it should not affect how the car runs. You can take the new battery back to the place that sold it or autozone/ advance autoparts. They can test and fully charge it for free. Another possibility is your alternator is bad. Once the car is running- check the voltage on the terminals. It should be around 14v.


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Regarding memory- there’s indeed memory in the computer. It allows the computer to adjust to degraded performance as parts age. You might have lost that, but it should relearn all of that after a drive or two. With that said, I’m still on my original battery. I have installed one of these lever-type battery disconnects and keep the battery disconnected for weeks. No problems or rough driving to speak of.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes,

I am skeptical.

Maybe I will try an Optima battery instead.

Regarding memory- there’s indeed memory in the computer. It allows the computer to adjust to degraded performance as parts age. You might have lost that, but it should relearn all of that after a drive or two. With that said, I’m still on my original battery. I have installed one of these lever-type battery disconnects and keep the battery disconnected for weeks. No problems or rough driving to speak of.


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I too replaced the battery with an Interstate and no issue at all. As other stated, once the car is running, it draws power from the alternator. Although it is not recommended, you can actually disconnect the battery and the car will run. A good alternator will supply power to operate the car and charge the battery at the same time.

You can pull the codes from the computer if it run bad again. The codes should give you some idea what the issues are.
 

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i wonder if the battery been removed for a longer period of time, the car computer might needed to be reset. As today's cars all controlled by computers not like the old car mostly on mechanical. even the clock needed to be reset once battery is cut off..That's why i always bring my iQ back to the Toyota Dealer for any service work, changing a battery might looks like a simple job , but disconnecting a battery of a new model car might mess up all the computer settings and needed to be reprogramming. Dealers always got the right tool to do it but not always with the ordinary garage. It might cost you more but all parts are under warranty when you get it from the Dealer. Besides, all mechanics working at dealers have to go under training and upgrading knowledge on a specific car model. They will know your car better. ***or might be your new battery was not Fully charged up when being installed. Lots of time the garage did not fully charged up the battery because they have to work on another car in order to make more money, as long as your car can start up, they expect you to keep driving it for a while to recharge the battery..and or your alternator is not functioning well. If your car haven't giving you any trouble on starting (like starts at the first crank), don't have to listen to them saying that your battery is down to....Unless you noticed that you need to crank a lot of times or hearing the starter trying hard to turn over....then...even so, the battery might not be dead, it might be just the car has not been driven enough to recharge the battery itself. I had another car before (new) but it was sitting there not driven much, ending up the dealer checked and said that my battery level was down to...they gave me an option of driving more and hopefully the battery would come back, and i kept driving it more and the battery never gave me any problem, after 5 years, it was still good as new. my iQ was from 2014 but the battery still as good as new as well because two years ago, I started connecting a pig tail (that came with a trickle charger) out from the battery terminal, you can quick connecting the pig tail to the Battery Tender ($39.95 on sale at Canadian Tire Store-Canada), it would monitor your battery 24/7 and only trickle charge your battery when needed, maintaining the battery at 100% FULL at all time. Now my car always starts at the first crank. It was so good that I ended up bought another Battery Tender for other car.*** it was introduced to me by my neighbor who had a motor cycle, he had a car and only ride the bike once in a while, he had a Battery Tender on his battery, and plug into A/C once in a while to Trickle charge the battery, his battery now is 10 years old but still start at the first crank. My battery is going to be 7 years old in May, thanks to the Battery Tender, my battery is like new. ***you don't need to plug in the Battery Tender at all time, there are led lights, Red, flashing Green and steady Green. When steady green= battery 100% Full, you can unplug it. in my case, I might just plug it in once a week to treat my battery, and if I anticipate myself not going to drive my car for a while, I would plug it in and leave it.(you can leave it plug in as long as you want and would not hurt your battery because it would not charge the battery if it detected that the battery is full, only trickle charge when needed because all newer model cars got computer, clocks, alarms ...etc. that would drain battery even when not moving. ***connecting and disconnecting the battery Tender only takes 2 seconds (like charging your cellphone) Thanks for listening to my long story.
 

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Not sure what’s your point. Yes, battery tender would recharge a dead battery to a point where it has enough juice to start a car, unless there is short in the battery or it is dry. There is nothing special about computer in IQ-you can leave the battery disconnected for months without a problem. Or you can leave it connected- modern computers are pretty good at going into a low power mode once you turn them off (and preferably lock the car). The lighting kit for iq is a different story. I think it has a design error that prevents it from shutting down completely; it will indeed eat your battery in a week or so.


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As @maksym kindly noted you can disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for a long time, the computer(s) don't have an issue when you reconnect. The only thing that may change is the maintenance light, but I think that is mileage based so nothing really.

I installed a Sylvania LED Fog DRL kit on mine. Strangely it has voltage sensitive activation so if I leave a battery maintainer connected to the car the DRL function will activate because the charger raised the voltage. So anytime I will leave the car sitting for a long time I have to disconnect the battery and then install the battery charger/maintainer.

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sorry guys, i am NOT a mechanic myself, all of the above i mentioned was just my own assumption, i am taking all back if I am wrong, thanks for pointing out the issues. i just want to share that the little Battery Tender is a good investment if your car battery is closed to 5 years old (the normally life span) especially when you are not putting enough mileage on the car.***one little gadget I found on Amazon recently was quite neat and useful and want to share with you guys (might be some of you already got them). a cigarette plug splitter with 3 outlets, separate on/off switch, and 2 USB ports, the BEST feature of it is (the most feature I interested in) the display of Battery Condition (showing the battery voltage in LED display) to warn you if your battery needs to be recharged. it also enable you to power up multiple devices. i will try to upload some images but if that failed (i never did that before), here is some info about that gadget: YANTU corded car charger 3 socket cigarette lighter splitter dual USB car charger with LED voltage monitor and separate switch compatible for most phones and other USB devices $ 17.99 Sales price. https://www.amazon.ca/Cigarette-Lig...B/ref=gbps_tit___f26842fc?smid=A3EJ87FXGO7Y7H

***somehow i cannot insert images, that was the best I can do to attach a link (might be that is how it work :) I hope it work
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
UPDATE:

I replaced my battery with a simple o'reilly battery and at first it ran like bad i.e rpm below 500- felt like it was going to shut off on me. After running the car for 15 minutes, my vehicle adjusted the rpm and has been running fine since the replacement.

In conclusion for my car at least ( 2013 ) - keep the RPM up and drive it for 15-30 minutes- it should correct itself.

Hope this info helps somone!
 

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UPDATE:

I replaced my battery with a simple o'reilly battery and at first it ran like bad i.e rpm below 500- felt like it was going to shut off on me. After running the car for 15 minutes, my vehicle adjusted the rpm and has been running fine since the replacement.

In conclusion for my car at least ( 2013 ) - keep the RPM up and drive it for 15-30 minutes- it should correct itself.

Hope this info helps somone!
Sounds like the ECU was trying to relearn the idle position. This usually happens when the battery is replaced.

Here's a quick video on how to get your vehicle to relearn the idle. ;)
 

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Sounds like the ECU was trying to relearn the idle position. This usually happens when the battery is replaced.

Here's a quick video on how to get your vehicle to relearn the idle. ;)
Spot on. When disconnecting a battery, most cars, Toyota included, will need the idle relearn procedure (sometimes even after cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body if badly soiled). Follow the steps in the video above (or any other directions for Toyota idle relearn) and you'll be good to go.

Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, but I played a Toyota Master Tech on TV for 17 years 😂
 
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