mine warmup in 5 minutes max, and actually we had slow temp (2°c)
Engine slow to warm
This engine is the slowest to warmup of any car I've had. The current outside air temperatures in this area have been in the 30's. With any previous car, I'd have decent heat in about 5 minutes and be at normal steady state operating temperature in about 10 minutes of steady driving.
With this car, it literally takes 20 minutes of steady driving to reach that normal operating temperature.
Using the ScanGauge, here are some observations.
On initial startup the ScanGauge matches outside air temperature if the car has been sitting for a long time. That's a good reality check that it's working correctly.
Within about 5 mintues the temp rises about 60F.
At 10 minutes it pauses for quite a bit at around 125F.
The low coolant temperature light in the instrument cluster goes OUT at about 130F.
At 20 minutes it finally reaches the thermostat controlled steady state temp of 190-195F, where it remains for the duration of any drive.
If one leaves it at idle, without driving, the radiator fan comes on at about 210F.
I had the dealer check it, and they said it was working normally. I personally think it's interminably slow to warm, as if the thermostat is opening too early.
It would be nice if more of you had ScanGauges or the like to compare. Any similar observations from those of you in colder climates?
Thanks.
With this car, it literally takes 20 minutes of steady driving to reach that normal operating temperature.
Using the ScanGauge, here are some observations.
On initial startup the ScanGauge matches outside air temperature if the car has been sitting for a long time. That's a good reality check that it's working correctly.
Within about 5 mintues the temp rises about 60F.
At 10 minutes it pauses for quite a bit at around 125F.
The low coolant temperature light in the instrument cluster goes OUT at about 130F.
At 20 minutes it finally reaches the thermostat controlled steady state temp of 190-195F, where it remains for the duration of any drive.
If one leaves it at idle, without driving, the radiator fan comes on at about 210F.
I had the dealer check it, and they said it was working normally. I personally think it's interminably slow to warm, as if the thermostat is opening too early.
It would be nice if more of you had ScanGauges or the like to compare. Any similar observations from those of you in colder climates?
Thanks.
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hey dave777,i have noticed the exact same thing,after work in the evening my COOL light is usually still on when i get home from work,only about 8 to 10 min drive,but it idles 5 min before i leave,i was and am very suprised.i thought maybe cuz of the small engine and lack of friction,but i had a suzuki forsa with a 1litre engine that got to runnin temp in a third of the time????????
I hear a lot about this, starting to think it's normal for the iQ. It sucks that it takes so long to warm up since now it's winter.
Even my 2003 Civic doesnt take that long to warm up, 5-10 minutes at max and the car is warm.
Maybe there is an issue and we will have to wait on a recall to be issued, who knows...
Even my 2003 Civic doesnt take that long to warm up, 5-10 minutes at max and the car is warm.
Maybe there is an issue and we will have to wait on a recall to be issued, who knows...
Thanks for your input guys. I find it frustrating in this winter weather.
The IQ is a little slow to warm.
I am not sure if the Cold light is for the engine or trans or maybe over all.
It is better to be on the safe side, Metals need time to expend and lubricate.
In cold weather, what I usually do is start the engine, and let it run for about 2 minutes, then I drive it and take it easy, till the cold light goes out, maybe 4 miles.
During the warmer weather when i had some it, I would warm the car for 1 minute, then drive easy till light went out.
I am not sure if the Cold light is for the engine or trans or maybe over all.
It is better to be on the safe side, Metals need time to expend and lubricate.
In cold weather, what I usually do is start the engine, and let it run for about 2 minutes, then I drive it and take it easy, till the cold light goes out, maybe 4 miles.
During the warmer weather when i had some it, I would warm the car for 1 minute, then drive easy till light went out.
There's absolutely no reason to sit and let an engine "warm up." None. Better to start driving, just taking it easy.
The Cold Light is a water temperature light, which goes OFF at about 130F.
The Cold Light is a water temperature light, which goes OFF at about 130F.
The IQ is a little slow to warm.
I am not sure if the Cold light is for the engine or trans or maybe over all.
It is better to be on the safe side, Metals need time to get up to temp & expand and get lubricant.
In cold weather, what I usually do is start the engine, and let it run for about 2 minutes, then I drive it and take it easy, till the cold light goes out, maybe 4 miles.
During the warmer weather when i had some it, I would warm the car for 1 minute, then drive easy till light went out.
I am not sure if the Cold light is for the engine or trans or maybe over all.
It is better to be on the safe side, Metals need time to get up to temp & expand and get lubricant.
In cold weather, what I usually do is start the engine, and let it run for about 2 minutes, then I drive it and take it easy, till the cold light goes out, maybe 4 miles.
During the warmer weather when i had some it, I would warm the car for 1 minute, then drive easy till light went out.
My point though, is that what you're doing isn't "on the safe side," and isn't doing anything to help your engine last longer. It's actually beneficial to get moving, at an easy pace.
Do some online searching for the topic and decide for yourself.
Do some online searching for the topic and decide for yourself.
Our IQ has the same problem. Went to the dealer and they said all is OK.
Noticed our scangaugeII shows coolant temp decreasing from 145 to 132 during a 1/2 mile downgrade starting at 7 minutes of engine run time.
Not happy as the heater really does not work for much too long.
Noticed our scangaugeII shows coolant temp decreasing from 145 to 132 during a 1/2 mile downgrade starting at 7 minutes of engine run time.
Not happy as the heater really does not work for much too long.
Its really cold here....and here's what I do...sadly. I get in my car in the garage, turn on
the radio, and heater fan....start the car and listen to the radio to block out the piston
slap. Once the motor heats up enough that I can't hear the piston slap clatter....then I
drive off. This is how much I hate that damn clatter! Lucky you Dave777! If my initial
start-up was as quiet as yours is NOW, then I would re-adjust. I'm still dealing with
what you got resolved....I'm just hoping that after you get 3k+ miles on your new one
that the same problem doesn't reappear.....Good luck!
the radio, and heater fan....start the car and listen to the radio to block out the piston
slap. Once the motor heats up enough that I can't hear the piston slap clatter....then I
drive off. This is how much I hate that damn clatter! Lucky you Dave777! If my initial
start-up was as quiet as yours is NOW, then I would re-adjust. I'm still dealing with
what you got resolved....I'm just hoping that after you get 3k+ miles on your new one
that the same problem doesn't reappear.....Good luck!
I'm with mistergib.....In that I start the buggy up and once the tick, tick, tick stops I take off, usually it gets quiet in about a minute or so. I am guilty of letting the buggy run for awhile sometimes so its nice and warm when its really cold out. My MPG's are suffering but whats a couple of dollars for comfort ?
Its really cold here....and here's what I do...sadly. I get in my car in the garage, turn on
the radio, and heater fan....start the car and listen to the radio to block out the piston
slap. Once the motor heats up enough that I can't hear the piston slap clatter....then I
drive off. This is how much I hate that damn clatter! Lucky you Dave777!
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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