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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I have what seems to be an electrical issue with my 2012 automatic Scion IQ. If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

I left my car parked at my parents house for about 6 weeks. 2 days ago my dad drove it but said he felt the steering wheel heavy. So he parked it back in the driveway to see if it was a flat tire ( it wasn't). And after that he could not turn on the car anymore (no cranking) or rise the power windows.

I thought it was the battery that had drained. So I went yesterday and charged it for several hours. Later I tried to start the car and still nothing, no clicking, clanking or any sounds (same as if the battery was dead but battery is fine). I do have the dashboard that lights up and the lights in the car and exterior lights work, so I know it's not the battery. However, I noticed that the power windows, radio, power locks, fan, ...in brief, everything that seems to do with the relay box inside the car (under driver's kick panel) seems to be disabled.

I wiggled the wire harness from the battery but nothing. I also moved the shifter to make sure it wasn't stuck in between and not in park to rule that out. So it seems to be that the compartment fuse box is not getting any current. I tried to look for wiring diagrams to see if there is a main fuse feeding that fuse box or some kind of component between the battery and that box that could have blown.

Does anyone have wiring diagrams or knowledge of what could be causing this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I don't know if anyone read my post. I found the issue and maybe I am wasting my time writing about it but I figured it could help someone in the future.

So I found out that there are 2 main fuses located under the red cap of the positive terminal at the battery. The one on the left is a 120A alternator fuse and on the right an 80A main fuse. The ALT fuse feeds the fuse box under the driver's dashboard.

Apparently, this fuse is very hard to blow but it can be done by replacing the alternator without disconnecting the battery. Guess what...my mechanic replaced the alternator last year! So he must have blown the fuse and figured that instead of replacing it (costs $35 CAN) he would just solder it back together. Well that's a bandaid fix and the solder let go when my dad drove the car. I was able to confirm this by jumping the fuse using a pair of needlenose pliers in order to be able to close my windows.

Does anyone know how to replace this fuse? It seems a bit complicated.
 

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Those are yer linkable fuses. Disconnect the battery ground first. Disconnect the 2 nuts holding the fuse module down and you should be able to pop it off. Clean up yer terminals and fasteners. Pop the new one in and fasten it in place. Reconnect the battery ground. ;)

Here's the part number:
82620ABLOCK ASSY, FUSIBLE LINK
82620-520701$14.08
 

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I don't know if anyone read my post. I found the issue and maybe I am wasting my time writing about it but I figured it could help someone in the future.

So I found out that there are 2 main fuses located under the red cap of the positive terminal at the battery. The one on the left is a 120A alternator fuse and on the right an 80A main fuse. The ALT fuse feeds the fuse box under the driver's dashboard.

Apparently, this fuse is very hard to blow but it can be done by replacing the alternator without disconnecting the battery. Guess what...my mechanic replaced the alternator last year! So he must have blown the fuse and figured that instead of replacing it (costs $35 CAN) he would just solder it back together. Well that's a bandaid fix and the solder let go when my dad drove the car. I was able to confirm this by jumping the fuse using a pair of needlenose pliers in order to be able to close my windows.

Does anyone know how to replace this fuse? It seems a bit complicated.

Thanks for the info. I had a similar issue one time but it was the ground cable was not making good contact to car body.
 

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OP - thanks for the information. I don't think the fuse would blow because he didn't disconnect the battery while replacing the alternator. I suspect that he grounded the positive cable and blew the fuse.

Soldered the fuse back is a terrible idea because it would defeat the purpose of the fuse in case of overload which may result in frying the electrical system.
 

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Those are yer linkable fuses. Disconnect the battery ground first. Disconnect the 2 nuts holding the fuse module down and you should be able to pop it off. Clean up yer terminals and fasteners. Pop the new one in and fasten it in place. Reconnect the battery ground. ;)

Here's the part number:
82620ABLOCK ASSY, FUSIBLE LINK
82620-520701$14.08
Interesting. This lists 82620-52050 is up to 8/2010 and 82620-52070 is after that.

 

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Sorry I completely missed this thread guys!

(It’s 4:30 am and I hear some coyotes howling outside but unrelated)…

I’m confused about the part # change, but my brain is not functioning this early in the morning. I know one half is usually specific to the vehicle model/chassis somehow, and the other half is the part number. If I’m able to sort it out later I’ll come back and post….
 

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Grab a big trash bag and cut out holes fer yer arms and head. Wear this over yer clothes when you work on the battery connections. This can help prevent any bits of acid ending up on yer clothes and burning micro holes in them. You'll want to mix up some baking soda and water (1 tablespoon to 1 pint of water) to clean up those connectors. It will probably fizz (that's the baking soda neutralizing the battery acid on the connectors). Use a old toothbrush to clean up the connections really well. Keep using the baking soda/water mix until it stops fizzing. ;)
 
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