[Workplace_Ace]

Hey everyone, I know problems are hard to diagnose via forums but this is sort of a last-ditch effort before having it towed to the shop. I'm not a mechanic, but am an avid DIY'er and am consider myself to be fairly mechanically inclined.

I started having this problem after the battery died in my 2013. I recharged the battery but when I put the key in the ignition, all the lights on the dash come on, headlights work, etc. but I get nothing when I turn it. No sounds at all other than beeps and what sounds like power trying to go somewhere.

• I swapped the battery with my 2012 and it has no problem starting at all.
• I pulled the starter (which was a pain) and was going to swap it with the starter from my 2012, but couldn't figure out which part I needed online. The starter assemblies I could find didn't look exactly like the starter I pulled. Then I got worried I might end up with two cars I can't drive, so I put it back.
• I have pulled and inspected every fuse I could find under the dash and in the engine compartment. The only things I can't seem to pull and inspect are these square/rectangle plastic housing modules that are in the fuse boxes. Not sure if it could be one of those or not, but I can't fit my hands or tools in there to pull em.

Has anyone else experienced something similar or have any ideas on what else I could try before having it towed to the shop?

Thanks in advance!

Respectfully,
Ace

 

[jzchen]

Not sure I understand this:

* I swapped the battery with my 2012 and it has no problem starting at all.

Which battery 2012 battery or recharged battery. Which car started?

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[Workplace_Ace]

Hey, I didn't write that very well. Thanks for letting me know. The battery in the 2013 died so I recharged it, reinstalled it, and then started having the problems listed. I couldn't find my multimeter to check for cold crank amps so I swapped the batteries between my 2012 and 2013. The 2012 started no problem, and my 2013 still has all the same problems.

 

[jzchen]

So there are two starter versions:

Cold climate version
Non-cold climate version

Also with alternator there are two versions the same:

Cold climate (higher amp)
Non-cold (lower amp)

(I actually know about the alternator options but was unaware of the starter until now).

Do you know if you have cold climate package?

Please put your location in profile it helps us know where your car is and what options it may have.

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[Workplace_Ace]

I really appreciate the help. I do not have a cold climate package and I am located in Seattle Washington but I'll add it to my profile too. Also, this car only has about 12k miles on it. Since I have two cars, it sat for maybe 40 days before I put the battery back in it. I'm not sure what sort of effect (if any) that might have, but it's something I always wonder about.

 

[jzchen]

I really appreciate the help. I do not have a cold climate package and I am located in Seattle Washington but I'll add it to my profile too. Also, this car only has about 12k miles on it. Since I have two cars, it sat for maybe 40 days before I put the battery back in it. I'm not sure what sort of effect (if any) that might have, but it's something I always wonder about.

No effect from what I have experienced. My '14 is at 16k miles. It sits with the negative side disconnected for many many days, but I put a battery charger/maintainer on the battery while it is in the car. It starts right up as long as the battery is kept charged. I do have to set the clock on the instrument cluster but even the preset radio stations are saved. Just need to select a radio station to listen to I believe the last station listened to is not saved. I checked AutoZone and they have both starter versions for your consideration. I do believe they can be damaged with a weak/bad battery so hopefully finding the correct starter and changing it solves this problem.

They may be able to test your starter for you. Wouldn't hurt to ask...

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[Workplace_Ace]

Awesome, thank you. I feel stupid now looking at the starters at Autozone, I was looking at them from my phone before and I didn't recognize the part. Now I see on the computer that they just have a piece of the structure the starter is attached to. I am gonna order one and see if it fixes my issue. I'll let ya know if it fixes the problem! Thank you for the discussion and help with this.

 

[Workplace_Ace]

Parts on order. Darn thing had a $52 core charge... I really hope this fixes it! lol.

Do you know if there any way to minimize my chances of damaging the starter when hooking up the battery? Like am I supposed to hook up the neg before positive, or positive before the negative?

 

[jzchen]

Hook positive before negative. You actually just need to disconnect the negative side of the battery for safety. Not necessary for both sides as far as I know.

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[Fogflyer]

Probably too late for this now, but my money would be on a faulty starter relay (one of those black boxes) or the starter solenoid (which is attached to the starter). You could see if you are getting power to the starter solenoid When turning the key. If not, it is likely the relay. If you are getting power to the solenoid, try whacking it with a piece of wood, a plastic hammer or softly with a real hammer. The mechanical solenoid sometimes just gets stuck and you can free it up with a whack or two.

 

[Fogflyer]

Oh, just realized you have TWO IQs.
try swapping the starter relays between the two and see if that is the problem.

 

[maksym]

Did you figure it out? Have tried putting battery from 2012 into 2013? If the battery in 2013 was old and died completely - there is a chance it is dead for good and will not hold enough charge for starting. Was there anything else that happened at the time of the battery dying? Other than that, I would agree with Fogflyer - hook up a multimeter and see if the starter is getting any power on the solenoid. If not - that would be faulty relay or fuse. If everything is good and the starter turns, but the car does not start - I would look for fuel pump fuse and fuel pump itself.

 

[Workplace_Ace]

@Fogflyer & @maksym - Hey, thanks for the replies! I did take the starter off of one with the intent of swapping them but I got nervous about ruining both of my cars. I just picked up a new optima yellowtop battery and starter yesterday. It took a while for them to arrive at my local store. I haven't had time to put them in yet, but I would much rather replace a possible starter relay than the starter. I am not a mechanic though and only have DIY/internet experience. I paid $17 to get an online Chilton manual but it has since expired. Would one of you be able to point out which black box is the starter relay?

I need to order a new multimeter in order to test the solenoid (I think my brother has it) but I don't know how to do that, anyway. I have found some videos online though that show people taking the starter off and putting power into it to see if the solenoid actuates or not. Is there a way to test that with a multimeter without having to take it off? I have the worst place to do any work on my car. Living in the Seattle area, it's cold and wet right now and I have a slope to my driveway, so any car work is always dicey. I make it as safe as I can by jacking the car up, but my creeper wants to roll downhill which is a pain in my ass.

I really appreciate the help here. If I could return this starter and save myself $250 that would be amazing.

 

[jzchen]

Didn't know about the solenoid thing my apologies...

Hope you get this resolved soon!

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[Workplace_Ace]

Didn't know about the solenoid thing my apologies...

Hope you get this resolved soon!

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All of this is more than I know! No worries at all. You have been very friendly and most helpful. I don't have very much forum experience because the handful of times I have joined one, people are not friendly or get irritated about repeated questions. Instead of linking articles or answering simple questions, I have been told to instead read through tons of old convos hunting for answers. I have been pleasantly surprised with everyone here so far and consider myself lucky to have got any replies at all. This car is quite uncommon and with such a short production time, information is hard to come by for DIYers.

 

[Fogflyer]

All of this is more than I know! No worries at all. You have been very friendly and most helpful. I don't have very much forum experience because the handful of times I have joined one, people are not friendly or get irritated about repeated questions. Instead of linking articles or answering simple questions, I have been told to instead read through tons of old convos hunting for answers. I have been pleasantly surprised with everyone here so far and consider myself lucky to have got any replies at all. This car is quite uncommon and with such a short production time, information is hard to come by for DIYers.

I can verify this on my IQ tomorrow, but the starter relay should be in the engine compartment fuse box on the drivers side of the engine bay. It will be the second relay down in the row. It should like this one for sale on eBay.

Genuine 4-Pin Starter Relay Module Unit 28300-21020 156700-4190 Fit Toyota Lexus | eBay

<li> Product features:</li> <li>100% Brand New and High Quality Design improved for more durability Built to strict quality control standards</li> <li>Support one year replacement . OEM Number:28300-21020</li> <li>Fitment:</li> <li>Toyota: Fits almost all models from (2000 - 2016)</li>...

www.ebay.com

if the non-starting one is still all put together, the first thing to do is see if you are getting 12 volts at the solenoid on the starter when someone is inside and turns the key to start it. If you don't register 12 volts, then the relay is bad.

First thing I would do is just swap the starter relays and see if the one that didn't start now does and the one that did start now doesn't.

if You already pulled the starter from the one that wouldn't start, go ahead and switch the relay to the one that does start. If it won't start after doing that, you know the relay is bad and you can just get a new one and put it back together.

here are some schematics that might help

Fuse Box Diagram Toyota iQ / Scion iQ (2008-2015)

Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Toyota iQ / Scion iQ (2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015)

fuse-box.info

 

[Fogflyer]

Okay, just got a chance to look at my IQ. So the relay is in the fuse box over next to the battery. One press in latch releases the top. The starter relay is the one way over to the right, second from the front of the car. Mine is kind of a purple-blue color, but they may not all be that color. It is definitely a bit of a PITA to get to! You might be able to get a curved needle nose in there to pull it out, I couldn't do it with just my fingers.

They do make special relay pliers. You can get them for $10-15 on Amazon. Autozone may also have them to borrow for free.

If it were me I would take off that 10mm bolt holding the whole fuse box assembly on and see if it will then slide up some to allow easier access.

Here is the pic of the box, but in the car this is upside down. The relays are toward the front-right of the engine bay. You are looking for the R2 spot. My R4 is empty, yours may be too, it is for some theft-deterrent that I obviously don't have.

Another quick way to check if the relay is working is rest your finger on the relay while someone tries to start the car. You should be able to feel a click in the box as the relay closes if it is working. Make sure your arms and clothes are not near any moving parts though in case it actually starts! 😆

 

[maksym]

You can also swap a relay from you your working IQ. The relays are standard items and should be available at your local Autozone or Advanced auto parts for like $10 or less. Worst case - get it from the service department of your closest Toyota dealer. If you pulled the starter already and afraid of touching it - take it to Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone. They have a free testing service:

https://www.autozone.com/lp/store-services

See this thread for a shop manual:

Scion iQ Repair Manual?

Can anyone tell me where I can get a Scion iQ Repair Manual? Are there iQ manuals by Chilton and Haynes yet? :confused: I have seen a few detailed technical pictures in the Forums that look like they are from a repair manual. I am not a sophisticated DIY'er so a manual would really help...

www.iq-forums.com

The manual has a full electric diagram that you can follow to diagnose the problem. Did the engine turn at all when you tried to start it? Did it make a clicking sound?

BTW, all relays and fuses should be labeled on the underside of the fuse box cover and possibly in user manual as well.

 

[kungfunut]

Hey everyone, I know problems are hard to diagnose via forums but this is sort of a last-ditch effort before having it towed to the shop. I'm not a mechanic, but am an avid DIY'er and am consider myself to be fairly mechanically inclined.

I started having this problem after the battery died in my 2013. I recharged the battery but when I put the key in the ignition, all the lights on the dash come on, headlights work, etc. but I get nothing when I turn it. No sounds at all other than beeps and what sounds like power trying to go somewhere.

• I swapped the battery with my 2012 and it has no problem starting at all.
• I pulled the starter (which was a pain) and was going to swap it with the starter from my 2012, but couldn't figure out which part I needed online. The starter assemblies I could find didn't look exactly like the starter I pulled. Then I got worried I might end up with two cars I can't drive, so I put it back.
• I have pulled and inspected every fuse I could find under the dash and in the engine compartment. The only things I can't seem to pull and inspect are these square/rectangle plastic housing modules that are in the fuse boxes. Not sure if it could be one of those or not, but I can't fit my hands or tools in there to pull em.

Has anyone else experienced something similar or have any ideas on what else I could try before having it towed to the shop?

Thanks in advance!

Respectfully,
Ace

Hi Ace,
I don't know how the Auto Shop works in the State, here in Canada (at least in BC where I live), if you got any problem of your car, you can easily go to your Car Dealer, tell them the problem, they would check your vehicle for you (for free), and then tell you what was the problem and what needed to be done or repaired. They would quote you the cost and how long would it take for the job done, and you have a choice to have it done there or not. Might be that is why our car price is so much higher in Canada than in USA because our after sales service is Excellent here.Since you are in Seattle, you can easily drive across the border (***of course NOT during the pandemic) to have your vehicle check here. as far as I know, quite a few people drove their car here (in Canada) to have it serviced (cheaper with the exchange rate), and get better and more friendly service. I got relatives in New York NY, having visiting two car dealers for service there and got very rude, lousy and ignorance treatment. Very bad impression of car service there... Might be that is why so many Americans try to do DIY on their vehicles. Car owners in USA paid cheaper price for purchasing a car but paying a lot higher price for after sale service.
Anyway, hope you fix you iQ sooner. Sorry, I am not a mechanic and couldn't offer any help.
Wishing you good Health
William